Great Lock Oudesluis

Once the Zuiderzee pounded against the lock gates during storms, but since the middle of the 19th century the former sea lock of the Zijperpolder has experienced considerably calmer times. Nowadays you drive right over it but once the "High Lock" made more of an impression.

You don't really notice it now, but in the 17th and 18th centuries Oudesluis was a busy place. Here the Zijperpolder drained into the Zuiderzee and all shipping traffic from the sea to Alkmaar had to be barred in what was then called the Large Lock of the Zijpe. The inhabitants of the village called it the "High Lock" because of its height. For the drainage of the Schermerboezem, the large North Holland water storage area, the lock was of great importance.

The Grote Sluis lock in Oudesluis was once a very busy traffic point. Nowadays, the lock opens mainly for pleasure boats in spring and summer. Photo: Henk Looijesteijn

Of the major embankments in North Holland, that of the Zijpe was one of the most difficult. It proved no easy task to seal off this storm-prone sea inlet. Once it succeeded, the Eighty Years' War erupted and the polder was flooded again. This allowed the Spanish army to be kept at bay from West Friesland. It was not until 1596-1597 that the Zijpe was permanently diked in. The new sea lock was built where it had already been in 1564.

Excerpt from the Map of the Zijpe from 1600 by Baptista van Doetecum († 1611). It is easy to see that near the 'Grote Sluys' there are already a few houses that will grow into the village of Oudesluis. Noord-Hollands Archive/560 - Collection of Maps and map books from the Provincial Atlas of North Holland, inventory number 1137
Jacob Dircksz de Graeff in distinguished black, as was proper for an influential and wealthy regent. Anonymous portrait from 1638. Collection: Rijksdienst voor het Cultureel Erfgoed, Amersfoort, document number C30

Little is known of that first wooden oldest lock. It mainly drained the polder but also served shipping traffic. By the year 1629, the lock was in need of general renewal, and in 1630 it was decided to build a larger and deeper stone sea lock, made of Bentheimer sandstone. The prominent Amsterdam mayor Jacob Dircksz de Graeff (1571-1638), lord of Zuid-Polsbroek and chief landlord of the Zijpe, played an important role in this.

The lock was built by Willem Jansz Benning (c. 1569-1636), a former lockkeeper from Edam who had started designing and building locks himself. He first built locks mostly abroad. The Grote Sluis van de Zijpe was his first major Dutch job. In 1631 Jacob de Graeff came to Oudesluis to lay the foundation stone: in January 1632 the work was completed. A beautiful memorial stone in the kolk recalls the role of mayor De Graeff and master builder Benning.

The plaque placed in 1632 can be clearly read in this 1975 photograph. Photo by P. Bosman, North Holland Archives/559. Collection: Provincial Atlas of North Holland, inventory number 9983

In 1711 the lock was repaired and even completely renewed in the years 1764-1765. Then the board of the Zijpe had two memorial stones placed with these dates and the swan from the coat of arms of the Zijpe. There was also a larger stone that listed the names of the builders. This time not high lords, but the three carpenters, the two masons and the stonemason.

One of two arms stones. Originally they were in a different place but because the lock was lowered they were moved. Photo: Henk Looijesteijn

The Grote Sluis played an important role in shipping on Alkmaar. All boaters had to pay lockage fees to the lock keeper. He also had the right to fish on the inside of the lock. In 1828 the then lock keeper was deprived of this right because he had opened the lock during the eel migration and angry farmers complained to the polder board about the salt water in their ditches.

The Grote Sluis of the Zijpe was measured in 1633 by the Haarlem surveyor Pieter Wils (c. 1600-1647). It was considerably wider and deeper than the Jacob Claessesluis on the southern side of the Zijpe. Colored drawing, Noord-Hollands Archief/1100 Image Collection of the Municipality of Haarlem, inventory number 52000

With the embankment of the Anna Paulowna polder in 1845-1847, the lock was no longer on the sea. Because both polders had the same water level, there was no longer a need to lock and the lock was only closed during unusually high water. A major change was the demolition of the old lockkeeper's house, which was also a farm and contained a meeting room for the polder administration.

The old lockkeeper's house with occupants in 1900. Anonymous photograph, North Holland Archives/559. Collection: Provincial Atlas of North Holland, inventory number 10036

The old house was replaced by a smaller one. It still contains a cornerstone inscribed with the date June 18, 1914. Two years later, new lock gates had to be installed. In the drained lock chamber, two village boys found a gold tenner from 1824. This was a gold coin worth 10 guilders. They took it to the contractor who gave the honest finders their share and divided the rest of the amount among his workers.

The old Great Lock from the Zijper side in 1945. The old lockkeeper's house was replaced by the smaller house that is still there today. Photo: HHNK

As shipping traffic decreased and automobile traffic increased, the road was widened and the lock lowered in the 1950s. The lockkeeper's house still possesses many original details, such as the 1850s tariff sign and a windbreak for the outer door that opens two ways, preventing the wind from howling in when the lockkeeper needs to go out.

The windbreak. Photo: Henk Looijesteijn
The 1850 rate board, bearing the names of the dike grave and secretary of the polder. Photo: Henk Looijesteijn

Additional

Those who hike the Julianadorp-Wieringerwaard section of the North Holland Trail will pass over the Great Lock.

The bicycle route The Beautiful North Holland North also passes over the Great Lock.

Great Lock

Skip the Map and go to the text version of: Big Lock

Text version

Great Lock

Address

Noorderweg 18, 1757 PC, Oudesluis, NL