Large Lock Oudesluis

Once upon a time, storms caused the Zuiderzee to pound against the lock gates, but since the mid-19th century, the former sea lock of the Zijperpolder has seen considerably calmer times. Nowadays, you can drive right over it, but the 'Hoge Sluis' (High Lock) once made a much greater impression.

You wouldn't know it now, but in the 17th and 18th centuries, Oudesluis was a hive of activity. This is where the Zijperpolder drained into the Zuiderzee, and all shipping traffic from the sea to Alkmaar had to pass through what was then called the Grote Sluis van de Zijpe (Great Lock of Zijpe). The residents of the village called it the 'Hoge Sluis' (High Lock) because of its height. The lock was of great importance for the drainage of the Schermerboezem, the large North Holland water storage area.

The Grote Sluis in Oudesluis was once a very busy traffic point. Nowadays, the lock mainly opens for recreational boating in the spring and summer. Photo: Henk Looijesteijn

Of all the major embankments in North Holland, the one at Zijpe was one of the most difficult. It proved challenging to close off this storm-prone sea inlet. Once this had been achieved, the Eighty Years' War broke out and the polder was flooded again. This allowed the Spanish army to be kept at bay from West Friesland. It was not until 1596-1597 that the Zijpe was permanently diked. The new sea lock was built on the same site where it had been constructed in 1564.

Excerpt from the map of Zijpe from 1600 by Baptista van Doetecum († 1611). It is clear to see that there are already a few houses at the ‘Grote Sluys’ that will grow into the village of Oudesluis. North Holland Archives/560 - Collection of maps and map books from the Provincial Atlas of North Holland, inventory number 1137
Jacob Dircksz de Graeff dressed in elegant black, as befitted an influential and wealthy regent. Anonymous portrait from 1638. Collection: Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands, Amersfoort, document number C30

Little is known about that first wooden lock. It mainly drained the polder but also served shipping traffic. By 1629, the lock was in need of complete renovation, and in 1630 it was decided to build a larger and deeper stone sea lock, made of Bentheimer sandstone. The prominent Amsterdam mayor Jacob Dircksz de Graeff (1571-1638), lord of Zuid-Polsbroek and chief landowner of Zijpe, played an important role in this.

The lock was built by Willem Jansz Benning (c. 1569-1636), a former lock keeper from Edam who had started designing and building locks himself. He initially built locks mainly abroad. The Grote Sluis van de Zijpe was his first major project in Holland. In 1631, Jacob de Graeff came to Oudesluis to lay the first stone: the work was completed in January 1632. A beautiful memorial stone in the lock chamber commemorates the role of Mayor De Graeff and master builder Benning.

The memorial stone, erected in 1632, is clearly visible in this photo from 1975. Photo by P. Bosman, North Holland Archives/559. Collection: Provincial Atlas of North Holland, inventory number 9983

In 1711, the lock was repaired and in 1764-1765 it was completely renovated. The Zijpe council then had two commemorative stones installed bearing these dates and the swan from the Zijpe coat of arms. A larger stone was also installed, bearing the names of the builders. This time, they were not noblemen, but the three carpenters, the two bricklayers, and the stonemason.

One of two coat of arms stones. They were originally located elsewhere, but were moved when the lock was lowered. Photo: Henk Looijesteijn

The Grote Sluis played an important role in shipping in Alkmaar. All skippers had to pay a lockage fee to the lock keeper. He also had the right to fish on the inside of the lock. In 1828, the then lock keeper was deprived of that right because he had opened the lock during the eel migration and angry farmers complained to the polder board about the salt water in their ditches.

The Great Lock of Zijpe was measured in 1633 by the Haarlem surveyor Pieter Wils (c. 1600-1647). It was considerably wider and deeper than the Jacob Claessesluis on the south side of the Zijpe. coloured , North Holland Archives/1100 Image Collection of the Municipality of Haarlem, inventory number 52000

Due to the reclamation of the Anna Paulowna polder in 1845-1847, the lock was no longer located at the sea. Because both polders had the same water level, there was no longer any need for lockage and the lock was only closed in the event of unusually high water levels. A major change was the demolition of the old lock keeper's house, which was also a farm and contained a meeting room for the polder board.

The old lock keeper's house with residents in 1900. Anonymous photo, North Holland Archives/559. Collection: Provincial Atlas of North Holland, inventory number 10036

The old house was replaced by a smaller one. There is still a cornerstone with the inscription June 18, 1914. Two years later, new lock gates had to be installed. In the drained lock chamber, two village boys found a gold ten-guilder coin from 1824. This was a gold coin worth 10 guilders. They took it to the contractor, who gave the honest finders their share and divided the rest of the amount among his employees.

The old Grote Sluis from the Zijper side in 1945. The old lock keeper's house has been replaced by the smaller house that still stands there today. Photo: HHNK

As shipping traffic declined and car traffic increased, the road was widened and the lock lowered in the 1950s. , the lock keeper's house still has many original details, such as the tariff board from 1850 and a windscreen for the outside door that can be opened in two ways, preventing the wind from blowing in when the lock keeper has to go outside.

The windshield. Photo: Henk Looijesteijn
The rate board from 1850, bearing the names of the dike reeve and the secretary of the polder. Photo: Henk Looijesteijn

Extra

Anyone walking the Julianadorp-Wieringerwaard section of the Noordhollandpad will cross the Grote Sluis.

The cycling route De mooie Kop van Noord-Holland(The Beautiful North Holland) also passes over the Grote Sluis.

Large Lock

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