Polder mill De Woudaap, Krommeniedijk

One of North Holland's most famous polder mills, the Woudaap, has stood on the Nauernasche Vaart since around 1651. Readers of the famous Kameleon series will associate this name with the polder mill on the Frisian lake where the Klinkhamer brothers sail. Author Hotze de Roos borrowed the name from the Woudaap in North Holland, near his home in Krommenie.

The Woudaap is a mill that is still capable of pumping water. Until the beginning of the 21st century, it pumped water from the Het Woud polder and can still be used in emergencies. Until the mid-17th century, Het Woud, also known as the Krommenieër Woudpolder, was land outside the dykes that took its name from the swamp forest that once grew there before it became pastureland. Due to the reclamation of the North Holland lakes in the early 17th century, these pastures were increasingly flooded. Poldering became necessary.

The ensemble of De Woudaap. To the right of the mill is the drawbridge over the lock. To the left of the mill is the stable, which was restored in 2008-2009, and next to it is the pumping station, which was built in 2008. Photo: Henk Looijesteijn

In 1650, work began on the reclamation of Het Woud. The mill needed to drain the new polder was built in or shortly after 1651 on the corner of the Nauernasche Vaart and the Tap- or Tochtsloot. These waterways along the polder were part of the Schermerboezem, the water storage area of the Hoogheemraadschap van de Uitwaterende Sluizen (Water Board of the Drainage Sluices). Despite the drainage, Het Woud remained a very wet area where persistent rain caused a lot of flooding.

The Forest is still a wet area rich in birdlife. View of the polder from the Woudaap lock. Photo: Henk Looijesteijn

The mill probably got its name from the little bittern, a small species of heron that would have felt right at home in Het Woud. This shy marsh bird loves dense reed beds, clinging to the reeds with its long toes and clambering through them like a monkey. Other names include woudhopje and wouwaapje. The latter because its mating call sounds like this: wouw-wouw-wouw. Unfortunately, the little bittern has become rare: around 1970 there were 200 breeding pairs in the Netherlands, now only 20.

Little bittern, drawn around 1650 by Pieter Holsteyn or his son. The inscription is the oldest known record of the bird's name. Collection North Holland Archives/Image Collection Municipality of Haarlem, inventory number 41969

Like many North Holland polder mills, the Woudaap is an octagonal smock mill, meaning it is octagonal in shape, with a cap that can be turned to face the wind. Until 1864, the mill had a paddle wheel. When that wheel could no longer drain the water, it was replaced by a wooden screw. This had to be replaced so often that a more durable iron screw was installed in 1916. From the outset, there was a lock next to the mill, the Woudaapsluis. There was also a wooden shed, which burned down in 1874 and was then rebuilt in stone.

The Woudaap on the polder side in 1985. On the left is the lock, on the right of the mill is the stable with (now demolished) outbuildings behind it. Watercolor painted by Jan Groenhart, HHNK Collection.

From 1877 onwards, the Woudaap no longer had to do the milling alone. From then on, the Krommenie and Het Woud polders worked together on the construction and maintenance of a steam pumping station, De Rapide. From then on, the Woudaap would also be maintained jointly. The polders paid according to the number of hectares covered by both polders: Krommenie 307/706ths and Het Woud 399/706ths. In 1948, the polders merged and the area was renamed the Krommenieër-Woudpolder.

The facade of De Rapide features two commemorative stones marking the laying of the foundation stone, with the names of the Krommenie polder board on the left...
...and on the right with the names of the polder board of Het Woud. The board members were predominantly farmers with property in the polder. Photos: Henk Looijesteijn

The Woudaap remained a defining feature of the landscape until the 1970s and must also have caught the attention of the Frisian Hotze de Roos (1909-1991). He settled in Krommenie in 1934 and in 1948 his first children's book, De Schippers van de Kameleon(The Skippers of the Kameleon), was published, with Hielke and Sietse Klinkhamer as the main characters. The Kameleon series is set in Friesland, but De Roos found inspiration close to home: the surname Klinkhamer was common in Krommenie, and there were also Klinkhamers in the polder board of Het Woud.

Sietse and Hielke Klinkhamer in their boat, with their imaginative friend Gerben Zonderland. Bronze statue by Annemie de Wit, 1998, intersection of Zuiderhoofdstraat and Padlaan, Krommenie. Photo: Henk Looijesteijn

In 1954, an electric motor was installed in the Woudaap, but the last professional miller, Henk Borst (1930-2002), made little use of it, because 'the wind is free'. Borst came from a family of water millers in South Holland and incorporated South Holland style features into the mill. Milling was not a lucrative profession: Borst also kept goats and cows and fished in the polder. He was devoted to the Woudaap and continued to operate the mill until his death.

Henk Borst was a miller's son who started grinding as soon as he saw rain coming. The white-painted sails and wind vane bearing the name of the mill were characteristic features of the South Holland style. Portrait by Rob Bruijn from 1982. Collection: Zaanstad Municipal Archives

The little bittern was, as it were, a symbol of the polder. During the annual dike inspection in May, the polder board always visited the little bittern around noon. They would then meet and eat in a special polder room. Miller's wife Borst first served a hearty drink and then a dish of eel stewed in the finest butter. After resting for half an hour on the polder dike, the board was back home in time for milking.

In 1972, the Krommenieër-Woudpolder was absorbed into a larger water board. Upon their departure, the administrators received a beautiful commemorative plaque featuring the little bittern. Private collection, photos by Van Wijk Krommenie, owned by HHNK

After Borst's death, the dilapidated mill was in need of major restoration. In 2008, a new screw pump was built next to the mill, in the style of a Zaan house. The mill was then completely restored and returned to its original Zaan style. Unfortunately, the expansion of Krommenie's buildings from the south has greatly reduced the wind catch in recent decades, but the mill can still grind.

It is not certain that the mill derives its name from the bird. Today, the mill cap features an image of another possible namesake, a monkey in the forest. Photo: Henk Looijesteijn

Extra

Polder mill De Woudaap is inhabited and cannot be visited.

Image and sound of a calling little bittern in the reeds:

The Woudaap is a photogenic stop on the Krommenieër-Woudpolder route(North Holland Walking Network).

Cycling along the Woudaap is also a great option: a beautiful route is the Jubilee Cycle Route(Laag Holland).

Another beautiful route is the Crommenije and Stelling van Amsterdam cycling route (Oer-IJ).

The preservation of the mill is made possible in part by the Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands and the province of North Holland.

De Woudaap polder mill, Krommeniedijk

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